The traditional Viennese coffee house culture

Here are some interesting anecdotes and facts about the coffee house culture during the Imperial & Royal era in Vienna.

The legend lives on

The history of the Viennese coffee house is closely connected with the end of Turkish occupation. It is said that Georg Franz Kolschitzky disguised himself as a Turk in order to break through the enemy lines and deliver a message to Charles V, Duke of Lorraine. He was generously rewarded by the Duke with a plot of building land, a licence to trade and spoils of war which included some sacks of mysterious beans. So it was that he founded Vienna's first coffee house in 1683, in the heart of Vienna, close to St Stephen's Cathedral. So the legend goes.

Traditional coffee houses become concert venues

In 1788, to the delight of the Viennese, Martin Diegand opened Vienna's first concert café.
Both Mozart and Beethoven enjoyed making music at the concert cafés. In the middle of the 19^th century, concerts would sometimes begin at 6 o’clock in the morning. Johann Strauss the Elder and Joseph Lanner were so popular that there was usually not an empty seat in the house. They were feted like pop stars at their performances all over Europe.

The first coffee house owner was a spy

In reality, the owner of Vienna’s first coffee house was an Armenian merchant called Johannes Diodato, who, on 17 January 1685, was granted the first licence to dispense coffee by Emperor Leopold I.

Refreshing Water with Lemons; Shutterstock ID 267658277

Expensive pleasure

People usually enjoyed themselves playing billiards or cards, even though playing cards was officially banned until the end of the 18th century. Owners of coffee houses risked a fine of 1000 kreutzers.

How newspapers arrived in coffee houses

The first newspapers were found 1720 in Café Kramer on “Am Graben”. This drew in illustrious guests like writers, artists and professors, who would devour the often anti-government or anti-monarchy articles from all over the world.

Conditorei Sluka traditional coffee house in the city center

The cashier

Until about 1840, the only woman who was allowed inside a coffee house, apart from the “invisible” kitchen staff, was the female cashier seated behind the cash register. Coffee house owners were quick to recognise the subtly erotic appeal of an ever-modest, quiet and friendly cashier. She was in charge not only of payments but also of dispensing the sugar.

Napoleon was not to Viennese taste

Vienna's coffee houses were sorely tested by Napoleon’s Continental Blockade on trade with England, between 1808 and 1813. No coffee-roaster could afford the exorbitant duty on coffee beans and many faced ruin. In desperation, they tried to imitate the flavour of coffee with ingredients such as plum stones, figs, rye, barley or chicory – with only limited success. That was why, during these hard times, coffee-houses were permitted to serve wine and hot food.

Emancipation in the coffee house

Finally, in 1856, the "Café Français" became the first coffee house to admit women. Until then, people believed that women should be protected from the wickedness of the coffee houses, with their gaming, alcohol and cigarette smoking.

A new lease of life

During the pre-March and Biedermeier period from about 1815, Vienna’s coffee houses enjoyed a new period of prosperity and became synonymous all over Europe with the idea of an excellent quality of life.

Coffee houses based on the traditional Viennese model opened in many European cities. Everywhere, coffee houses were resplendent with spacious rooms, red upholstery and giant chandeliers.

Emancipation in the coffee house

Finally, in 1856, the "Café Français" became the first coffee house to admit women. Until then, people believed that women should be protected from the wickedness of the coffee houses, with their gaming, alcohol and cigarette smoking.

From Vienna to the whole world

The World Exhibition in 1873 brought many thousands of visitors from all over the world to Vienna. Many of those visitors came to love the Viennese coffee house culture and its magnificent elegance. In this way, the outstanding reputation of Vienna’s coffee houses spread around the whole world.

The birth of coffee-house literature

From 1890 onwards, the Café Griensteidl was the meeting place for the literary group called "Jung Wien" (Young Vienna). The spokesman for the society, Hermann Bahr, gathered round him an illustrious group of young writers including Hugo von Hofmannsthal, Karl Kraus, Arthur Schnitzler, Peter Altenberg and many more. However, the literati did not confine themselves to one coffee house. Over the years, they also selected the Café Central and the Café Herrenhof as their meeting places.

The miracle of elegance

1891 marked the start not only of the Ringstrasse era but also of the age of grandiose elegance. About 30 coffee houses appeared along the Ringstrasse, all with pavement seating and bombastic interiors which tempted the aristocratic ladies and gentlemen strolling by to come inside for a while.
The Ringstrasse and its coffee house culture were known and celebrated all over the world as a “miracle of elegance”.
For many Viennese, the elegantly decorated coffee houses were a kind of extended living room in which they would meet their visitors and friends.